Green Rio: the Lagoa, Parque Lage and the Botanical Garden

Rio is famous for its beaches, but some of the city's best days are spent in the green. And from Humaitá you're perfectly placed for it: three of the Zona Sul's loveliest outdoor spots — the Lagoa, Parque Lage and the Botanical Garden — sit almost back to back, a short walk or ride from the hostel. String them together and you have an easy, unhurried day away from the crowds.

Here's how we'd do it.

Start with a loop around the Lagoa

The Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas is the heart-shaped lagoon that anchors this whole side of the Zona Sul, ringed by a flat 7.5km path that's made for walking, running and cycling. It's one of the most quintessentially carioca things you can do.

Rent a bike lakeside at Parque dos Patins and set off — there's no wrong direction. Along the way you'll pass kiosks for a cold drink, wooden docks to stop and take in the view, sports courts, a skate park, and plenty of shade. Out on the water you can hire a pedal boat, and if you're feeling ambitious the bike paths carry on all the way to the Botanical Garden or down to the beach.

A few honest tips:

• Early morning and late afternoon are the nicest — cooler, and the light on the water is lovely.
• Cycling is popular but not car-free everywhere, so ride with a bit of care.
• Look up: on a clear day Corcovado and Christ the Redeemer preside over the whole scene.

Wander Parque Lage at the foot of Corcovado

Just a few streets off the Lagoa, Parque Lage is a 52-hectare park that melts straight into the Atlantic Forest at the base of Corcovado. At its centre stands a grand 1920s mansion — the Palacete — built around a courtyard with a small pool and a café, and now home to a well-known school of visual arts (the EAV). The famous shot is the café framed by the mansion's arches, with the forest and Christ rising behind.

Beyond the mansion, the grounds keep their whimsical, romantic character: ponds and pathways, artificial caves and castle-like towers, a children's playground, even a little aquarium, all wrapped in greenery. It's a favourite for family outings and picnics — and a magnet for the city's artists.

Parque Lage is also where the forest trail up to Cristo Redentor begins — a steep, roughly two-hour uphill hike through the Tijuca National Park for those who'd rather earn the view than take the train. If that's you, go early, go prepared, and check that the trail is open before you set off.

Lose an afternoon in the Botanical Garden

A short step away is the Jardim Botânico — Rio's Botanical Garden, and the reason the whole neighbourhood shares its name. Founded in 1808 by Dom João VI to acclimatise plants from around the world, it's grown into a 54-hectare research institute and one of the most important centres for botany in the world. It was made a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 1991.

For a visitor, though, it's simply a beautiful place to slow down. Highlights to look for:

• The Imperial Palm avenue — a cathedral-like walk lined with towering palms, and the garden's most photographed spot.
• The Orchid House and other historic glasshouses, home to hundreds of species.
• The Japanese Garden, with its stone lanterns, bonsai and koi ponds.
• The monkeys — keep an eye on the treetops; they're used to visitors, but please don't feed them.

If you still have energy, the neighbouring Horto area hides some of Rio's most accessible waterfalls, the Cachoeiras do Horto, tucked into the edge of the rainforest. Opening times and ticketing for the garden change from time to time, so check the current details before you go.

Making a day of it from Humaitá

The beauty of this trio is how close it all is to us. A relaxed plan:

1. Morning — coffee and a pastel at the Cobal do Humaitá, then pick up a picnic from the market stalls.
2. Midday — cycle a loop of the Lagoa and find a shady dock for lunch.
3. Afternoon — drift through Parque Lage, then the Botanical Garden next door.
4. Evening — back to Humaitá for a cold beer where the day started.

It's the kind of day that reminds you Rio isn't only sand and skyline — it's rainforest, lagoons and gardens too, all within reach of a good neighbourhood base.

Want a hand planning it? Take a look at our rooms to find your base in Humaitá, browse more things to do, or ask our team and we'll point you to our current favourites.